Monday, November 3, 2014

DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Valencia Armoire Part II (Shelving Portion)

I have been building myself a new bedroom set including a bednightstand, and matching dog bedI don't have a closet in my bedroom, so I needed an armoire. I looked at a few different plans, but I couldn't find a plan that I really liked. I really liked Pottery Barn's Valencia Armoire, but I did not like the $1,599 price tag. I decided to make one on my own.

I built it in two parts. I first made the bottom dresser and then the top shelving unit. You can find the steps for the dresser here. Either could be used individually or bracketed together to make one unit. Here are the steps I took to make the top shelving unit. The cost of the materials, including the hardware, for the shelving portion was just under $100.

Pottery Barn's armoire is 27" deep. I have very limited room in my bedroom, so I decreased the depth. I made mine to have a depth of 19 3/4". If you want the same size as Pottery Barn, you will have to increase the depth.

Needed materials:
1 - 4'x4' 1/4" plywood
1 - 4'x4' 1/2" plywood
1 - 4'x8' 3/4" plywood
1 - 2'x4' 3/4" plywood
1 - 1"x2" at 8'
1 - 1"x4" at 4'
1 - 2"x2" at 8'
1 1/4" PH screws
1 1/4" finishing nails
3/4" finishing nails
6 hinges 
2 cabinet pulls
Magnetic latches

Step 1: Make your cuts. 

2 - 3/4" plywood at 18" x 40 3/4" (sides)
3 - 3/4" plywood at 18" x 40" (shelves)
2 - 2"x2" at 40" (top frames)
1 - 3/4" plywood at 21 1/2" x 45 1/2" (topper)
1 - 1/4" plywood at 40 3/4" x 41 1/2"(back)
2 - 1"x2" at 40 3/4" (side trim)
1 - 1"x4" at 38 1/2" (header)
2 - 1/2" plywood at 19 1/8" x 37"

I used my circular saw for the plywood cuts and my miter saw for the rest of the cuts.

Step 2: Using a Kreg Jig, pre-drill pocket holes into the bottom shelf. At this time, you may also choose to pre-drill pocket holes into the top of the sides to later attach the topper.

Step 3: Attach the bottom shelf to the sides. You could also use counter-sunk screws if you don't have a Kreg Jig. The shelf will be inside the two sides.

Step 4: Using pocket holes or counter-sunk screws, attach the 2x2 top frames to the top of the sides.

Step 5: Using pocket holes or counter-sunk screws, attach the other two shelves. You can place these at whatever height that you want. You could also make these shelves adjustable by using shelf pins. You may also choose to leave the shelves out and put in a hanging rod to hang clothes or to put in a television.

Note: Depending on where you want to place the top shelf, you might want to wait to attach the top shelf, until after you attach the topper. If you put the top shelf in too high and are using pocket holes, you will not be able to fit your drill in later.

Step 6: Using finishing nails, attach the back.

Step 7: Using finishing nails and glue, attach the side trim.

Step 8: Using pocket holes or counter-sunk screws, attach the header.

Step 9: Using the pre-drilled pocket holes or counter-sunk screws, attach the topper.

Step 10: Using three hinges for each door, attach the doors. You also could leave the doors off and leave this as an open shelving unit.

Step 11: Fill any holes with wood filler and sand it.

Step 12: Paint or finish it. I used Rustoleum Painter's Touch in Kona Brown.

Step 13: Attach the cabinet hardware and magnetic catch according to the manufacturer's directions. I used Hickory Hardware's Studio Collection Pull in the Oil-Rubbed Bronze Highlighted color. They were about $4.50 each from Menards. 

Step 14: The shelving unit portion is complete at this point. You could use this as a stand-alone unit.

You could also place it on top of the dresser portion of the armoire.

If you place the shelving unit on top of the dresser unit. I strongly suggest bracketing the two units together for safety.

Step 16: Enjoy your new armoire!

Tomorrow, I will post a full material and cut list for the entire armoire.

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