Rudolph the Reindeer Crochet Baby Hat Pattern

Christmas is just around the corner. If you are looking for a quick hat to make for the holiday cards, this crocheted Rudolph the Reindeer hat pattern is perfect!

My little model is my 6 month old nephew. He does have a larger than average head size for his age, but this pattern should fit the average 6-12 month old. 

The pattern will result in a hat that has a circumference of 17 1/2” and a hat height from brim to crown of about 7”. This should fit most 6-12 month old babies. Since not all baby heads are the same size, check the size of your baby's head prior to making it. There is some stretch to this hat, so it will stretch a little bit, if necessary. You can also easily adjust the size by changing the size of your crochet hook. If you need to change the height of the hat, just increase or decrease the number of rounds following row 6.

Any bulky-weight yarn can be used for this pattern. The materials listed below are what I used for this pattern, but any bulky-weight yarn will work.

Needed Materials:

2 oz. Lion Brand Homespun (Sierra) – hat and ears color (MC)

2 oz. Lion Brand Jiffy (Caffe) – antler color (AC)

Small amount Bernat Softee Chunky (Black) – small eye color (BC)

Small amount Bernat Softee Chunky (White) – large eye color (CC)

Small amount Lion Brand Jiffy (True Red) – nose color (DC)

Size K (6.5 mm) Crochet Hook

Tapestry Needle

Small amount of polyfill stuffing

Gauge:

After you have completed round 3, you should have a diameter of about 3 ½”. Please check the gauge, as I do crochet tightly, so you may need to adjust your hook size.

Finished Size:

6-12 months

Hat

Round 1: Using MC, make an adjustable loop, ch 3, 7 dc in the loop, join and pull the loop tight. (8 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in the joining space, (2 dc in each dc) around, join. (16 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in the next dc, (dc in the next dc, 2 dc in the next dc) around, join (24 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in the next dc, (2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next 2 dc) around to last dc, 2 dc in the last dc, join. (32 dc)

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in the next 2 dc, (2 dc in the next dc, dc in the next 3 dc) to last dc, 2 dc in the last dc, join. (40 dc)

Rounds 6-10: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join. (40 dc) You may increase or decrease the number of rounds to change the height of your hat.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ears (Make 2)

Round 1: Using MC, make an adjustable loop, ch 1, 6 sc in the loop, do not join, pull the loop tight. You may want to place a marker at the beginning of the round and move it up as you go. (6 sc)

Round 2: (Sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 2 times. (8 sc)

Round 3: (Sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 2 times. (10 sc)

Round 4: (Sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 2 times. (12 sc)

Round 5: (Sc in the next sc, 2 sc in the next sc) 6 times. (18 sc)

Round 6-9: (Sc in the next sc) around. (18 sc)

Round 10: (Sc in the next sc, sc2tog) 6 times. (12 sc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the ears to the hat.

Long Antlers (Make 2)

Round 1: Using AC, make an adjustable loop, ch 1, 9 sc in the loop, do not join, pull the loop tight. You may want to place a marker at the begging on the round and move it up as you go. (9 sc)

Rounds 2-17: (Sc in the next sc) around. You can increase or decrease the number of rounds to adjust the length of the antlers. (9 sc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the antlers to the hat.

Short Antlers (Make 2)

Round 1: Using AC, make an adjustable loop, ch 1, 9 sc in the loop, do not join, pull the loop tight. You may want to place a marker at the beginning of the round and move it up as you go. (9 sc)

Rounds 2-8: (Sc in the next sc) around. You can increase or decrease the number of rounds to adjust the length of the antlers. (9 sc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the short antlers to the long antlers.

Inner Eyes (Make 2)

Round 1: Using BC, make an adjustable loop, ch 1, 4 sc in the loop, join, pull the loop tight. (4 sc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the inner part of the eye to the outer part of the eye.

Outer Eyes (Make 2)

Round 1: Using CC, make an adjustable loop, ch 1, 6 sc in the loop, join, pull the loop tight. (6 sc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the eye to the hat.

Nose

Round 1: Using DC, make an adjustable loop, ch 1, 6 sc in the loop, do not join, pull the loop tight. You may want to place a marker at the beginning of the round and move it up as you go. (6 sc)

Round 2: (2 Sc in the next sc) around. (12 sc)

Round 3: (Sc in the next sc) around. (12 sc)

Round 4: (Sc in the next sc, sc2tog in the next sc) around. (8 sc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the nose to the hat.

Finishing

Sew the ears to the hat. Sew the small antlers to the large antlers. Sew the large antlers to the hat. Lightly stuff the nose. Sew the nose to the hat. Sew the inner part of the eye to the outer part of the eye. Sew the eyes to the hat. Weave in all ends.

Abbreviations

Ch = Chain

Dc = Double Crochet

Sc = Single Crochet

Sc2tog = Single Crochet Two Together

You can see more details and can download a pdf of the pattern or from the Ravelry pattern page. While you are over on Ravelry, be sure to check out some of my other projects on my project page!

DIY Christmas Window Decorations

If you are looking for a cute, easy, and inexpensive way to decorate your windows for Christmas, this is the perfect project. I purchased all the materials to make mine from the Dollar Store, so the cost of this was only $7!

Here are the steps to take to make a Christmas window decoration of your own.

Step 1: Gather your materials.

• Christmas Ornaments - I used about 50, but you may want more or less depending on the size of your window and the size of the ornaments.
• Curtain rod to fit your window.
• Garland
• Bow
• String or yarn

Step 2: Tie the string to the ornaments. 

Step 3: Tie the other end of the string to the curtain rod.

Step 4: Continue to add more ornaments at various lengths. 

Step 5: Add the garland to the curtain rod to cover up the string.

Step 6: Add the bow.

Step 7: Enjoy your holiday decorations!

Helpful hints:

• Tie the strings to the curtain rod after the rod is in place. I originally was tying them before I hung it and I ended up with a tangled mess.
• Cut the garland into smaller pieces to wrap around the rod. I tried to do it in one piece and again ended up in a tangled mess.
• I used yarn but something like fishing line or thin thread would probably look nicer. The reason I used yarn was because I have cats that I know will be batting these around. If one gets wrapped around their paw, I don't want them to get hurt.
• If you have animals or small children, ensure that the ornaments that you use are not breakable. This has become the new favorite toy in my house.

Free Knitting Pattern Dog Chew-No-More Leg Cover

My dog, Gibson, has been fighting bladder cancer for the past few years. Although there is no cure for canine bladder cancer, he has beat the odds and has lived much longer than expected. He has good days and bad days, but is still very happy.

Gibson has tried several different treatments. For awhile, he was getting IV chemotherapy. Just like in humans, there are risks that come with chemotherapy. He had a reaction to an injection that he received in his upper front leg. He kept chewing and licking the spot, which made the irritation worse. 

I looked around at the store for something to cover it, but could not find anything that would stay on his leg and he would leave alone.

I created this to cover the wound and prevent him from further irritating the sore. He was still able to pull it down with his teeth, so I attached a piece of elastic to wrap around it and hold it up. It worked perfectly! Gibson left it alone long enough to heal.

Materials Needed:

• Worsted Weight Yarn - If this is going to be on a sore, natural fibers will be less irritating than synthetic fibers. 
• Set of four size 7 double-pointed knitting needles, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Optional Materials: 

• Roll of 1 inch wide elastic band.
• Needle and thread.
• Fasteners - I used the fasteners from an old set of sheet straps.

Instructions:

With size 7 dpns, cast on 20 stitches. 
Join in the round, and work in K1, P1 ribbing for 5 rounds. 
Evenly increase 4 stitches on the next round and continue in the K1, P1 ribbing until work from beginning measures about 1 ¾ inches.

Elbow Opening: Cast off 12 stitches loosely in ribbing. Rib to the end of the round. Cast on 12 stitches and rejoin in round. Work 5 rounds in K1, P1 ribbing. Knit all stitches in round until work from the elbow opening measures about 4 ¾ inches (or the length needed for your dog’s leg). Decrease 4 stitches evenly on the next round. Work 8 rounds in k1, P1 ribbing. Cast off in ribbing. Weave in ends.

Elastic band: Cut a piece of 1 inch wide elastic long enough to wrap around the dog. Make sure it is not too loose so the dog can pull the cover down, but you don’t want it too tight to make it uncomfortable. My dog is a fat lab, and the elastic I used was about 27 ½ inches. You can either sew it directly to the leg cover or attach some kind of fastener to be able to remove the strap.

Notes: I made this for a large lab’s leg. You may have to adjust the number of stitches and/or change the yarn or needle size to obtain a size that fits your dog.

You can download the pdf of this pattern here or from the Ravelry website. While you are on the Ravelry website, be sure to check out some of my other projects on my project page!

DIY Mod Podge Snowman Luminary

I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. We are supposed to get our first big snow storm of the season tonight. Up to 16 inches of snow has been predicted, so I decided to make a snowman. Luckily, this snowman does not require you to go out in the cold!

You probably have everything needed to make this snowman luminary right at your home, so you can make this for free! This is also a great activity for kids of any age.

Needed Materials:
Jar (any size)
School Glue and water or Mod Podge
Paint Brush or Sponge
Tissue Paper
Miscellaneous Craft Supplies

Step 1: Prepare your supplies.

Take your tissue paper and cut or tear it into small pieces. The size and shape do no need to be uniform. If you are making this with a small child, I suggest using bigger pieces so it does not take as long to make.

Mix equal amounts of glue and water to make a Mod Podge mixture. You could also use store bought Mod Podge, but mixing glue and water works just as well. I like mine to be a little more watery, so I add more water than glue to the mixture, but that is just my preference.

Step 2: Paint on the glue/water. Just do a small section at a time.

Step 3: Start randomly placing the tissue paper on the portion of the jar with the mixture on it.

Step 4: Continue to paint small sections with the mixture and putting on the tissue paper. This does not need to be neat. Just place the tissue paper any place in any direction.

Step 5: Once that layer has dried a little bit, add another layer by painting the glue/water mix over the layer you just made and then adding more tissue paper. Continue this process adding more layers of tissue paper.

Step 6: Once you have as many layers as you want, paint the entire jar one last time with the glue/water mix to make sure all the edges of the tissue paper are securely fastened.

Step 7: Allow your jar to dry.

Step 8: Decorate your jar. I used felt to make the snowman face and buttons. I added a sock to the top for a hat. You can use whatever you want to decorate your snowman. 

Some ideas:

Black and orange colored tissue paper for the face

Small buttons for the buttons

Pom poms and a pipe cleaner for ear muffs

Mitten for a hat

Pipe cleaners for arms

Braid some yarn together to make a scarf 

These are cute just like this, but you could also make these into luminaries. Simply place an LED tea light or a small strand of Christmas lights inside the jar.

Not only are these Snowman Luminaries cute decorations, they make good night lights for any of town guests. Also, if your guests need to get up during the night, they can switch on the light inside the jar and use it as a flash light. These would make perfect gifts for kids to make for grandparents or teachers.

DIY Pottery Barn Valencia Armoire Knock-off Full Material and Cut Lists

I built myself a new bedroom set. The bedroom set included a Pottery Barn Hudson Bed knock-off, a nightstand, a large wooden dog bed, and a Pottery Barn Valencia Armoire knock-off. I built the armoire in two sections. You can find the detailed steps for the dresser portion of the armoire here and the detailed steps of the shelving unit portion of the armoire here. Today, I will give you complete material and cut lists to build the entire armoire.

Pottery Barn's Valencia Armoire sells for $1,599. I made mine for under $250!

Because I have a small bedroom, I did decrease the depth of the drawers and shelves by about 4". If you want to build your armoire to the Pottery Barn specifications, you will need to increase the depth. If you have a smaller area, you could also decrease the depth.

Here is a complete material list if you would like to build this armoire. Depending upon the cost of the hardware, you could build this entire armoire for under $250!

Needed materials:

3 - 1"x2" at 8 feet

1 - 1"x4" at 4 feet

1 - 1"x10" at 3 feet

2 - 1"x10" at 8 feet

1 - 1"x12" at 8 feet

4 - 2"x2" at 8 feet

1 - 4"x4" at 4 feet

1 - 1/4" plywood at 4'x8'

1 - 1/4" plywood at 4'x4'

1 - 1/2" plywood at 4'x4'

2 - 3/4" plywood at 4'x8'

1 1/4" PH screws

2 1/2" PH screws

1 1/4" finishing nails

3/4" finishing nails

1 1/4" wood screws

2 - 16" Bottom Mount Euro drawer slides
4 drawer pulls

2 cabinet pulls

6 hinges

2 magnetic latches

Brackets (to hold together the two portions)

Here is the complete cut list if you want to build both parts of the armoire.

2 - 1/4" plywood at 16" x 37 1/2" (drawer bottoms)

1 - 1/4" plywood at 26 3/4" x 41 1/2"(dresser back)

1 - 1/4" plywood at 40 3/4" x 41 1/2"(shelving unit back)

2 - 1/2" plywood at 19 1/8" x 37" (doors)

2 - 3/4" plywood at 15 3/4" x 26 3/4" (dresser sides)

3 - 3/4" plywood at 18" x 40" (shelves)

2 - 3/4" plywood at 18" x 40 3/4" (shelving unit sides)

1 - 3/4" plywood at 20" x 42 1/2" (dresser top)

1 - 3/4" plywood at 21 1/2" x 45 1/2" (shelving unit topper)

4 - 1"x2" at 15 3/4" drawer slide holders)

2 - 1"x2" at 38 1/2" (drawer divider and back middle frame)

2 - 1"x2" at 40 3/4" (shelving unit side trim)

1 - 1"x4" at 38 1/2" (shelving unit header)

4 - 1"x10" at 36" (drawer fronts and backs)

4 - 1"x10" at 16" (drawer sides)

2 - 1"x12" at 38 1/4" (drawer faces)

4 - 2"x2" at 26 3/4" (dresser sides of frames)

4 - 2"x2" at 38 1/2" (dresser top and bottom of frames)

2 - 2"x2" at 40" (shelving unit top frames)

2 - 4"x4" at 3" (back feet)

2 - 4"x4" at 3" then cut at a 15 degree bevel (front feet)

Enjoy your new armoire and be sure to check out the other items that I built in my new bedroom set!

Pottery Barn Hudson Bed Knock-off

Nightstand

 Large Wooden Dog Bed

DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Valencia Armoire Part II (Shelving Portion)

I have been building myself a new bedroom set including a bed, nightstand, and matching dog bed. I don't have a closet in my bedroom, so I needed an armoire. I looked at a few different plans, but I couldn't find a plan that I really liked. I really liked Pottery Barn's Valencia Armoire, but I did not like the $1,599 price tag. I decided to make one on my own.

I built it in two parts. I first made the bottom dresser and then the top shelving unit. You can find the steps for the dresser here. Either could be used individually or bracketed together to make one unit. Here are the steps I took to make the top shelving unit. The cost of the materials, including the hardware, for the shelving portion was just under $100.

Pottery Barn's armoire is 27" deep. I have very limited room in my bedroom, so I decreased the depth. I made mine to have a depth of 19 3/4". If you want the same size as Pottery Barn, you will have to increase the depth.

Needed materials:

1 - 4'x4' 1/4" plywood

1 - 4'x4' 1/2" plywood

1 - 4'x8' 3/4" plywood

1 - 2'x4' 3/4" plywood

1 - 1"x2" at 8'

1 - 1"x4" at 4'

1 - 2"x2" at 8'

1 1/4" PH screws

1 1/4" finishing nails

3/4" finishing nails

6 hinges 

2 cabinet pulls
Magnetic latches

Step 1: Make your cuts. 

2 - 3/4" plywood at 18" x 40 3/4" (sides)

3 - 3/4" plywood at 18" x 40" (shelves)

2 - 2"x2" at 40" (top frames)

1 - 3/4" plywood at 21 1/2" x 45 1/2" (topper)

1 - 1/4" plywood at 40 3/4" x 41 1/2"(back)

2 - 1"x2" at 40 3/4" (side trim)

1 - 1"x4" at 38 1/2" (header)

2 - 1/2" plywood at 19 1/8" x 37"

I used my circular saw for the plywood cuts and my miter saw for the rest of the cuts.

Step 2: Using a Kreg Jig, pre-drill pocket holes into the bottom shelf. At this time, you may also choose to pre-drill pocket holes into the top of the sides to later attach the topper.

Step 3: Attach the bottom shelf to the sides. You could also use counter-sunk screws if you don't have a Kreg Jig. The shelf will be inside the two sides.

Step 4: Using pocket holes or counter-sunk screws, attach the 2x2 top frames to the top of the sides.

Step 5: Using pocket holes or counter-sunk screws, attach the other two shelves. You can place these at whatever height that you want. You could also make these shelves adjustable by using shelf pins. You may also choose to leave the shelves out and put in a hanging rod to hang clothes or to put in a television.

Note: Depending on where you want to place the top shelf, you might want to wait to attach the top shelf, until after you attach the topper. If you put the top shelf in too high and are using pocket holes, you will not be able to fit your drill in later.

Step 6: Using finishing nails, attach the back.

Step 7: Using finishing nails and glue, attach the side trim.

Step 8: Using pocket holes or counter-sunk screws, attach the header.

Step 9: Using the pre-drilled pocket holes or counter-sunk screws, attach the topper.

Step 10: Using three hinges for each door, attach the doors. You also could leave the doors off and leave this as an open shelving unit.

Step 11: Fill any holes with wood filler and sand it.

Step 12: Paint or finish it. I used Rustoleum Painter's Touch in Kona Brown.

Step 13: Attach the cabinet hardware and magnetic catch according to the manufacturer's directions. I used Hickory Hardware's Studio Collection Pull in the Oil-Rubbed Bronze Highlighted color. They were about $4.50 each from Menards. 

Step 14: The shelving unit portion is complete at this point. You could use this as a stand-alone unit.

You could also place it on top of the dresser portion of the armoire.

If you place the shelving unit on top of the dresser unit. I strongly suggest bracketing the two units together for safety.

Step 16: Enjoy your new armoire!

Tomorrow, I will post a full material and cut list for the entire armoire.