Mod Podging a Photo onto Wood

A couple weeks ago, I got a coupon for a free 11" x 14" poster from Walgreens. I've always loved this picture, so I decided to redeem the coupon for this photo.

I had planned on getting a frame for the picture, but then I decided that I would use some of the scrap wood that I have in my basement. I mod podged the poster onto a piece of plywood and I'm really happy how it turned out. Here are the steps I took, so you can make one of your own.

Needed materials:

Photograph - I used 11" x 14", but any size can be used.

Piece of wood - I used 14" x 17", but any size can be used.

Stain or Paint

Mod Podge (or make your own with craft glue and water)

Foam Brush

Very Fine Grit Sandpaper (optional)

Step 1: Cut the wood down to size. I decided to have a 1 1/2" border around my picture. You can use whatever size you want.

Step 2: Stain or paint your wood. I used some Minwax Dark Walnut stain that I had leftover. Since I wanted a 1 1/2" border, I did not bother staining the middle. If you want a more rustic look, you may want to use sand paper to roughen up the edges at this step.

Step 3: Mark the location of your picture. I made a border of 1 1/2", but you can make your border any size.

Step 4: Using a foam brush, spread the Mod Podge on the back of the picture. If you do not have Mod Podge, just mix equal parts craft glue and water. It works just as well as the real stuff.

Step 5: Place the picture on the board.

Step 6: Seal the edges of the photo with the Mod Podge.

Step 7: Brush a thin layer of the Mod Podge across the entire board and picture. Keep your brush strokes in one direction. Don't worry, it is supposed to look like this.

Step 8: Let the Mod Podge dry and then apply more layers. I applied 4 layers to make sure it was completely sealed and protected, but the number of layers you apply is up to you.

Step 9: If the Mod Podge is more textured than you like, you can wet sand it with a very fine grit paper. I like the more textured look, so I did not sand mine.

Step 10: Attach any picture hanging hardware. I have not decided where I am going to put my picture, so I'm not going to put any picture hangers on it right now. But, you could put it on a shelf, lean it against the wall, put eye hooks into the top and hang it with a ribbon or string, or attach sawtooth hangers to the back.

Step 11: Display your picture.

DIY Quick and Easy Fall Centerpiece

I wanted a simple centerpiece that I could use for more than just the fall season. Looking at Pinterest, there are a ton of wood boxes out there. I knew that I could make one with things that I already had at home and that it could be used for multiple seasons. 

If you don't have wood laying around, it only takes one board to build. You can buy one for under $3.50 and it took me less than an hour to build!

Here are the directions to make your own.

Needed materials:

1 - 1" x 6" at 8 foot long board

Wood Glue

Stain or Paint

1 1/4" Finishing Nails (optional)

Step 1: Cut your wood.

3 - 1" x 6" at 24" (base and sides)

2 - 1" x 6" at 7" (ends)

Step 2: Using wood glue, attach the two sides to the base.

Step 3: Clamp the sides to the base until the glue has dried. I am not very patient, so instead of waiting for it to dry, I used a few finishing nails. The nails are not necessary, as the glue will hold it. But if you don't want to wait for the glue to dry or you don't have clamps, or you just want a little extra support, you can use finishing nails.

Step 4: Glue on the ends of the boxes. Again, I used a few finishing nails, but this is not necessary.

Step 5: Stain or paint your box. I used Minwax Dark Walnut stain that I had leftover from another project. I'm not the greatest sander, so ignore the weird spots. :-)

Step 6: Add any decor that you like. I added some Mason jars and artificial Mums for the Fall season. Other options for fall could be small pumpkins and gourds, candles, autumn leaves, the list can go on and on. 

Step 7: Enjoy your customizable centerpiece wood box. This simple box can be used for any season or holiday by simply changing the contents of the box. Some ideas are: Poinsettias and jingle bells for Christmas, plastic Easter eggs, spring or summer flowers, and red, white, and blue jars with American flags. 

This also would make a great gift! You could make several boxes to have on hand and then customize them based on the reason for the gift. The size also can be easily altered if you want a shorter or longer box.

Sport Purple for Platelets!

Today is National Sport Purple for Platelets Day! Please put on your favorite purple apparel to help raise awareness for ITP.

If you are not familiar with Idiopathic Thrombocytopenia Purpura (ITP), it is a bleeding disorder that is not completely understood. It is sometimes called Immune Thrombocytopenia Purpura because they do know that it is an autoimmune disorder. In people that have ITP, the immune system attacks the platelets. Platelets are what allows blood to clot. Without enough platelets, you will experience bruising, spontaneous bleeding, and could even cause a brain bleed.

People who are diagnosed with ITP may need to make drastic changes to their life. I will never forget the first night the on-call doctor called me with my lab results. He told me that my platelet count was "dangerously low" and that I had to go to the ER right away. He also told me to be very careful not to bump into anything because I could have internal bleeding. So, obviously physical activity needs to be limited.

But, there are tons of other things that can cause your platelet count to decrease. Everything from medications, to certain foods, to natural herbs, and everything in between. It can be pretty frustrating.

As long as the count stays high enough, you can live a normal life, but on any given day, the count could come crashing down and every little bump ends up with a huge bruise and you wonder whether you should go to the ER or not.

There is no known cause or cure for ITP. There has not been a whole lot of research on it until recently. They are now beginning to understand ITP and have been able to develop some new treatments. This is why it is so important to bring awareness and to help educate not only the general public, but also health care professionals.

Please join me in Sporting your Purple in support of ITP and other platelet disorders!

To find out more information about ITP, I recommend going to pdsa.org.

Curating a Kid's Furniture Clipboard for hometalk

Are you a member of hometalk? If not, what are you waiting for? If you are not familiar with hometalk, it is a fabulous website where people can share their knowledge on everything related to the home. Members can post pictures and tutorials of things that they have made or done. They range in topic from how to plant a garden, to how to fix an appliance, to home decor, and everything in between.

Not only can you view a ton of amazing ideas from other people, but you can ask for suggestions and opinions on whatever you need. I have posted both tutorials and asked for advice on different topics and the feedback for both has been terrific! Another feature, is that you can create "clipboards." These boards allow you to group and save ideas and inspiration for later viewing.

Last week, I was asked to curate a featured clipboard about kids furniture. Over the past few years, I have made quite a few things for the little people in my life, so I was so excited to be asked to curate this board! This is the 20 enchanting kids furniture ideas clipboard that I put together. The hardest part of putting together the clipboard was narrowing down the possibilities. They were looking for 15 - 20 projects and I could have easily used at least 50!

The above is just a sampling of some of the amazing projects on the clipboard. Be sure to check it out! While you are taking a look, don't forget to become a member of hometalk. I promise, you will not regret it!

If you want to check out some of my past posts, questions, or boards that I have on hometalk, be sure to checkout my hometalk profile. I would also love to have you as a Follower!

DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Hudson Queen Sized Bed

I wanted to make myself a new bed. I looked at several different plans, but I couldn't find one that I really liked everything about. So, I drew up my own plan. This is what I came up with and the cost of the wood to build this bed was under $100! If you already have a bed frame, you could build this for under $80. Here are the instructions on how to build your own.

Needed Materials:
3 - 1" x 3" at 8 feet long
2 - 1" x 4" at 6 feet long
2 - 1" x 6" at 6 feet long
2 - 1" x 12" at 8 feet long
6 - 2" x 4" at 6 feet long
2 - 2" x 4" at 8 feet long
1 - 2" x 12" at 8 feet long
2 - 4" x 4" at 8 feet long
1 - 1/2" x 4' x 8' plywood
1 1/4" pocket hole screws
2 1/2" pocket hole screws
1" finishing nails
2" wood screws

3" wood screws

wood glue

Notes:

• My bedroom is small, so I built this bed to exactly fit my box spring and mattress. (My mattress is 80" long and the total height of my box spring and mattress is 22 1/2".) I do know that there is some variation in the length and thickness of mattresses. Before you build this, please check your mattress measurements to ensure it will fit and make any necessary adjustments to the length of the frame sides, side rails, and head board posts. 
• If you already have a bed frame, you can omit the 2x4s and the 3" wood screws.
• Once you have your head board and foot board completed, I strongly suggest assembling the bed in the bedroom.

Step 1: Make your wood cuts.

2 - 4" x 4" at 53 1/4" (head board posts)
1 - 1/2" plywood cut at 26 3/4" x 60" (head board)
2 - 1" x 4" at 60" (head board trim)
4 - 1" x 3" at 19 3/4" (head board trim)
1 - 2" x 12" at 60" (head board support)
2 - 1" x 6" at 69" (head board and foot board toppers)
2 - 4" x 4" at 21" (foot board posts)
1 - 1/2" plywood cut at 17" x 60" (foot board)
2 - 1" x 3" at 60" (foot board trim)
4 - 1" x 3" at 12" (foot board trim)
2 - 2" x 4" at 82 1/2" (frame sides)
6 - 2" x 4" at 57" (frame cross boards)
2 - 1" x 12" at 79" (side rails)

I used my Kreg Rip-Cut and circular saw to make my plywood cuts. Then I used my miter saw for the rest of the cuts.

Step 2: Using a Kreg Jig set at the 3/4" setting, drill pocket holes on the two end sides of your head board. It would also be a good idea to make pocket holes on the top side of the head board, at this time. I did not do this and I wished I would have.

Step 3: Using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and the pre-drilled pocket holes, attach the plywood to the posts. I inset my plywood 1 1/2" from the front. It's up to you whether you want yours inset or not. Remember, this plan is based off of a total box spring and mattress height of 22 1/2". If your mattress is thicker or thinner, you may want to adjust the height of the head board posts.

Step 4: Using wood glue and 1" finishing nails, attach the top and bottom trim. 

Step 5: Using wood glue and 1" finishing nails, attach the vertical trim. I made a simple panel look, but you can put your trim in any design you want.

Step 6: Using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and the pre-drilled pocket holes, attach the topper to the plywood. Attach the topper so there is an overhang of 1" on each side of the head board posts. Using 2" wood screws, countersink the screws through the topper to the posts. 

I thought I was happy with the head board at this point, but I later decided that I wanted to add a support to better hold the frame. So, I am skipping forward in my pictures for this step. You can skip this next step if you already have a bed frame.

Step 7: Using a Kreg Jig set at the 1 1/2" setting, drill pocket holes on the two end sides of the 2" x 12" board. Attach the board to the posts with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. I put mine flush to the back and 4" from the bottom.

Step 8: Using a Kreg Jig set at the 3/4" setting, drill pocket holes on the two end sides and the top side of your foot board.

Step 9: Using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and the pre-drilled pocket holes, attach the plywood to the posts. I inset my plywood 1 1/2" from the front.

Step 10: Using wood glue and 1" finishing nails, attach the foot board trim.

Step 11: Using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and the pre-drilled pocket holes, attach the topper to the plywood. Attach the foot board topper so there is an overhang of 1" on each side of the foot board posts. Using 2" wood screws, countersink the screws through the topper to the posts. 

Step 12: Fill any holes with wood filler and sand it.

Step 13: Stain or paint the head and foot boards. I used Rust-oleum Painter's Touch in Kona Brown.

Step 14: Build the bed frame or attach a pre-made frame to the header and footer. Using a Kreg Jig set at the 1 1/2" setting, drill pocket holes on one end of each of the 82 1/2" long 2" x 4" boards. You will use these pocket holes later to attach to the head board support. Remember, this plan is based off of a mattress that is 80" long and it is a tight fit. If your mattress is longer or you want the fit to be a little looser, you may want to adjust the length of the frame sides.

Step 15: Using a Kreg Jig set at the 1 1/2" setting, drill pocket holes on the two end sides of the 57" long 2" x 4" boards. Attach these boards to the longer boards with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to construct the frame. Attach the first board to the ends with the pocket holes in the side 2" x 4" boards. Then space out the remainder of the boards. I spaced mine 13 1/2" apart from each other and then left 6" open at the end to connect to the foot board.

Step 16: Attach the frame to the headboard support using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and the pocket holes that you pre-drilled. I attached my frame 4" from the bottom of the posts. Also, use 3" countersunk screws to attach the frame to the head board support and posts.

Step 17: Using 3" countersunk screws, attach the frame to the foot board posts.

Step 18: Using 2" countersunk screws, attach the side rails to the frame. Again, this length may need to be adjusted.

Step 19: Sleep well on your new bed!

After I was done building this, I realized that this bed looked incredibly like Pottery Barn's Hudson Bed. I did not intentionally make it that way because I made it up as I went, but that is how it turned out. I do like the $100 cost of my bed much more than the $1699 price of the Hudson Bed!

Now, I just need to figure out the colors I want for my walls, bedding, and window treatments.

Fleece-Lined Stay-on Baby Mittens Knitting Pattern

Now that it is getting colder outside, it is time to start pulling out the hats, mittens, and scarves.

A little over three years ago, my brother contacted me because my niece, who was under a year old, kept pulling off her mittens. No matter what my brother and sister-in-law did, my niece would get her mittens off. My brother asked me if I could make a pair of mittens that would stay on.

So, I designed a pair of thumb-less mittens that were extra long to go up her arm and were also attached to an i-cord. They could put the mittens on her, pull them up her arm, and then pull her jacket sleeves over them. That way she could not pull the mittens off. If she would have somehow managed to get them off, the i-cord would have prevented them from getting lost. I also lined them with fleece to make them extra warm.

Here is the pattern:

Needed Materials:

US 3 - 3.25 mm dpn (for the i-cord)

US 4 - 3.5 mm dpn (for the mittens)

Sport-weight yarn (about 25 g)

Small amount of fleece

Mittens – Make 2

With the size 4 dpns, cast on 30 stiches.

Join in the round, and work in K1, P1 ribbing for 2 inches.

Change to the size 3 dpns and work in the ribbing for an additional 2 inches.

Change to the size 4 dpns and work in stockinette (knit every round) for 2 inches.

Next decrease row: K4, Knit 2 together around (25 stiches)

Next row: Knit around

Next decrease row: K3, Knit 2 together around (20 stiches)

Next row: Knit around

Next decrease row: K2, Knit 2 together around (15 stiches)

Next row: Knit around

Next decrease row: Knit 2 together to last stich, K1 (8 stiches)

Cut the yarn leaving a 4 inch tail. Pull the tail through the 8 remaining stiches and pull tight.

Weave in ends

Lining – Make 2 (Optional)

With tailor’s chalk, roughly trace the completed mitten onto a piece of fleece. Trace it slightly larger to account for the seam. You will need to trace 2 per hand. You may choose to make the lining to fit the entire mitten, or just the portion where the baby’s hand will go. Fleece stretches one way but not the other. Make sure that you trace the mitten in the direction to allow the fingers to spread out as opposed to stretching up and down.

Cut the mittens out of the fleece and pin together making sure that the softer side is on the inside. Staying close to the edge, sew around the edge of the fleece, leaving the bottom open for the baby’s hand to go into.

Slide the fleece mitten into the knit mitten. Secure the top and bottom of the fleece mittens into the knit mittens.

I-Cord (Optional)

With size 3 dpns, Cast on 3 stiches. Slide the stiches to the opposite end of the needle. Pull the end of the yarn from behind. *K3. Slide the stiches to the opposite end of the needle. Pull the end of the yarn from behind. Repeat from * until you reach about 22 inches. Bind off.

Sew an end to each of the mittens.

Fleece Lining

A printable pdf of the pattern can be found here. To see more details, check out the Ravelry pattern site. While you are out on Ravelry, be sure to check out some of the other things that I have made on my project page.

DIY Nightstand

I am working on building myself a new bedroom set. This nightstand was very easy and fast to build. Most of the supplies I used for this project were left over from other projects. However, if you need to buy all the wood, you could do it for under $40. Here are the instructions on how to build your own.

This night stand was inspired by a couple different nightstands. The first one was Restoration Hardware's 30" Heirloom Silver-Chest Open Nightstand. I liked the simple look, but not the $950 price. I also did not really care for the hardware on it. I also liked the look of Pottery Barn Kid's Catalina Nightstand. I liked the open front and it was not as chunky looking. It was also $199. So, I merged the two and drew up my own plan.

Needed Materials:

1 - 1" x 2" at 8 feet long

1 - 1" x 4" at 8 feet long
1 - 1" x 4" at 2 feet long

1 - 1/4" x 2' x 4' plywood 

1 - 1/2" x 2' x 8' plywood
1 - 3/4" x 2' x 4' plywood 

1 1/4" pocket hole screws

1" pocket hole screws

1 1/4" finishing nails

wood glue

Most of my materials were already at my house. You may choose to use one 3/4" x 4' x 4' plywood instead of the 3/4" x 2' x 4' plywood and 1/2" x 2' x 8' plywood, just be sure to adjust your measurements.

Step 1: Make your wood cuts.

Wood Cuts:

2 - 1/2" plywood cut at 16" x 26" (sides)

3 - 3/4" plywood cut at 16" x 20"  (shelves)

2 - 1" x 2" at 26" (front trim)
3 - 1" x 2" at 18 1/4" (front trim)
1 - 1/4" plywood cut at 21" x 26" (back)
5 - 1" x 4" at 22" (top)

I used my new favorite tool, the Kreg Rip-Cut, to make my plywood cuts. It is amazing! I makes cutting plywood so fast and easy!

Step 2: Drill your pocket holes. Using a Kreg Jig set at the 1/2" setting, drill the pocket holes on the top, middle, and bottom shelf. 

Step 3: Attach the top shelf to the sides. Using 1" pocket hole screws and the pre-drilled pocket holes, attach the top shelf to the sides. If you are using 3/4" plywood for the sides, use the 3/4" Kreg Jig setting and 1 1/4" screws.

Step 4: Attach the bottom shelf to the sides. Follow the same process that you followed for the top shelf.

Step 5: Attach the middle shelf to the sides. Follow the same process that you followed for the top shelf. You can place it where ever you want. I put mine about 9" below the top shelf.

Step 6: Using wood glue and 1 1/4" finishing nails, attach the trim. I used a nailer, but you could also use normal finishing nails.

Step 7: Using wood glue and finishing nails, attach the 1/4" plywood back.

I had originally planned on putting an 18" x 22" piece of plywood on top, but to give it a little more character, I decided to put 5 - 1" x 4" boards on top. 

Step 8: Using wood glue and 1 1/4" finishing nails, attach the 1" x 4" boards to the top.

Step 9: Fill any holes with wood filler and sand it.

Step 10: Stain or paint the night stand. I used Rustoleum Painter's Touch in Kona Brown.

Step 11: Enjoy your new nightstand!