DIY Pottery Barn Inspired Hudson Queen Sized Bed

I wanted to make myself a new bed. I looked at several different plans, but I couldn't find one that I really liked everything about. So, I drew up my own plan. This is what I came up with and the cost of the wood to build this bed was under $100! If you already have a bed frame, you could build this for under $80. Here are the instructions on how to build your own.

Needed Materials:
3 - 1" x 3" at 8 feet long
2 - 1" x 4" at 6 feet long
2 - 1" x 6" at 6 feet long
2 - 1" x 12" at 8 feet long
6 - 2" x 4" at 6 feet long
2 - 2" x 4" at 8 feet long
1 - 2" x 12" at 8 feet long
2 - 4" x 4" at 8 feet long
1 - 1/2" x 4' x 8' plywood
1 1/4" pocket hole screws
2 1/2" pocket hole screws
1" finishing nails
2" wood screws

3" wood screws

wood glue

Notes:

• My bedroom is small, so I built this bed to exactly fit my box spring and mattress. (My mattress is 80" long and the total height of my box spring and mattress is 22 1/2".) I do know that there is some variation in the length and thickness of mattresses. Before you build this, please check your mattress measurements to ensure it will fit and make any necessary adjustments to the length of the frame sides, side rails, and head board posts. 
• If you already have a bed frame, you can omit the 2x4s and the 3" wood screws.
• Once you have your head board and foot board completed, I strongly suggest assembling the bed in the bedroom.

Step 1: Make your wood cuts.

2 - 4" x 4" at 53 1/4" (head board posts)
1 - 1/2" plywood cut at 26 3/4" x 60" (head board)
2 - 1" x 4" at 60" (head board trim)
4 - 1" x 3" at 19 3/4" (head board trim)
1 - 2" x 12" at 60" (head board support)
2 - 1" x 6" at 69" (head board and foot board toppers)
2 - 4" x 4" at 21" (foot board posts)
1 - 1/2" plywood cut at 17" x 60" (foot board)
2 - 1" x 3" at 60" (foot board trim)
4 - 1" x 3" at 12" (foot board trim)
2 - 2" x 4" at 82 1/2" (frame sides)
6 - 2" x 4" at 57" (frame cross boards)
2 - 1" x 12" at 79" (side rails)

I used my Kreg Rip-Cut and circular saw to make my plywood cuts. Then I used my miter saw for the rest of the cuts.

Step 2: Using a Kreg Jig set at the 3/4" setting, drill pocket holes on the two end sides of your head board. It would also be a good idea to make pocket holes on the top side of the head board, at this time. I did not do this and I wished I would have.

Step 3: Using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and the pre-drilled pocket holes, attach the plywood to the posts. I inset my plywood 1 1/2" from the front. It's up to you whether you want yours inset or not. Remember, this plan is based off of a total box spring and mattress height of 22 1/2". If your mattress is thicker or thinner, you may want to adjust the height of the head board posts.

Step 4: Using wood glue and 1" finishing nails, attach the top and bottom trim. 

Step 5: Using wood glue and 1" finishing nails, attach the vertical trim. I made a simple panel look, but you can put your trim in any design you want.

Step 6: Using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and the pre-drilled pocket holes, attach the topper to the plywood. Attach the topper so there is an overhang of 1" on each side of the head board posts. Using 2" wood screws, countersink the screws through the topper to the posts. 

I thought I was happy with the head board at this point, but I later decided that I wanted to add a support to better hold the frame. So, I am skipping forward in my pictures for this step. You can skip this next step if you already have a bed frame.

Step 7: Using a Kreg Jig set at the 1 1/2" setting, drill pocket holes on the two end sides of the 2" x 12" board. Attach the board to the posts with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. I put mine flush to the back and 4" from the bottom.

Step 8: Using a Kreg Jig set at the 3/4" setting, drill pocket holes on the two end sides and the top side of your foot board.

Step 9: Using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and the pre-drilled pocket holes, attach the plywood to the posts. I inset my plywood 1 1/2" from the front.

Step 10: Using wood glue and 1" finishing nails, attach the foot board trim.

Step 11: Using 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and the pre-drilled pocket holes, attach the topper to the plywood. Attach the foot board topper so there is an overhang of 1" on each side of the foot board posts. Using 2" wood screws, countersink the screws through the topper to the posts. 

Step 12: Fill any holes with wood filler and sand it.

Step 13: Stain or paint the head and foot boards. I used Rust-oleum Painter's Touch in Kona Brown.

Step 14: Build the bed frame or attach a pre-made frame to the header and footer. Using a Kreg Jig set at the 1 1/2" setting, drill pocket holes on one end of each of the 82 1/2" long 2" x 4" boards. You will use these pocket holes later to attach to the head board support. Remember, this plan is based off of a mattress that is 80" long and it is a tight fit. If your mattress is longer or you want the fit to be a little looser, you may want to adjust the length of the frame sides.

Step 15: Using a Kreg Jig set at the 1 1/2" setting, drill pocket holes on the two end sides of the 57" long 2" x 4" boards. Attach these boards to the longer boards with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to construct the frame. Attach the first board to the ends with the pocket holes in the side 2" x 4" boards. Then space out the remainder of the boards. I spaced mine 13 1/2" apart from each other and then left 6" open at the end to connect to the foot board.

Step 16: Attach the frame to the headboard support using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and the pocket holes that you pre-drilled. I attached my frame 4" from the bottom of the posts. Also, use 3" countersunk screws to attach the frame to the head board support and posts.

Step 17: Using 3" countersunk screws, attach the frame to the foot board posts.

Step 18: Using 2" countersunk screws, attach the side rails to the frame. Again, this length may need to be adjusted.

Step 19: Sleep well on your new bed!

After I was done building this, I realized that this bed looked incredibly like Pottery Barn's Hudson Bed. I did not intentionally make it that way because I made it up as I went, but that is how it turned out. I do like the $100 cost of my bed much more than the $1699 price of the Hudson Bed!

Now, I just need to figure out the colors I want for my walls, bedding, and window treatments.