DIY Charging Station With a Power Strip Compartment

I live in a 120+ year old house. If you have ever been in an old house, you will notice that there is a severe lack of outlets. Obviously, when electricity was first put into homes they did not have all the gadgets that we have now. However, the shortage of outlets leaves my counter looking like this while I alternate each thing that needs to be charged.

You can make this charging station to house all your electronics for under $5. The best part is that it is made so a USB charging multi-port or a power strip can fit inside and only one cord needs to be plugged in to the wall! This is also completely customizable to fit your electronics.

Needed Materials:

1- 1/4" plywood or other panel product at 2' x 2' 

Saw to make your cuts

3/4" Spade Bit

Wood glue

Clamps

Finishing nails (Optional - I used only wood glue to construct mine and it is very sturdy. You can also use finishing nails, but they are not necessary.) 

Paint or varnish of your choosing

Step 1: Make your cuts.

1 - 11 1/2" x 5 1/4" (bottom)

1 - 11 1/2" x 4 3/4" (back)

2 - 11 1/2" x 1 1/2" (bottom strips)

1 - 11 1/2" x 5 3/8" (middle back)

1 - 11 1/2" x 5 3/16" (middle front)

1 - 12" x 3 3/4" (front)

2 - 1 1/2" x 5 1/8" Cut at a 45 degree angle on one end. The long point should measure 5 1/8". (middle dividers)

1 - 1 1/2" x 5 1/4" Cut at a 45 degree angle on one end. The long point should measure 5 1/4". (front divider)

2 - 7" x 5 1/4" First cut the rectangle. Then cut the incline at a 45 degree angle. The top flat part should measure 2" and the front flat part should measure 3 3/4". (sides)

I used my circular saw for most of the cuts. I then used my miter saw for the 45 degree angles.

Step 2: Using a 3/4" spade bit, drill holes in the 1 1/2" strips and the bottom of the middle front piece (11 1/2" x 5 3/16"). The spade bit needs to be at least 3/4" so the USB can fit through. Check the size of your cords and make any necessary adjustments. 

The number of holes you drill depends on your electronic needs. I drilled two holes for the back section strip, three holes for the middle section strip, and four holes in the middle front piece. It's better to make too many holes at this point, than to wish you had made more holes after it is done. If you make more holes than needed, you can cut a piece of cardboard or wood to cover it until it is needed. 

Step 3: Glue the sides to the bottom and clamp it. The bottom should be between the sides. The sides should not be on top of the bottom.

Step 4: Glue the back to the sides and clamp it. Again, the back should be between the sides.

The top of the back should be flush with the top of the sides.

Step 5: Glue one of the 1 1/2" strips to the bottom of the back and to the two sides and clamp it. Be sure not to clamp too much. You want to make sure that this is square.

Step 6: Glue the middle back piece (11 1/2" x 5 3/8") to the strip and the sides and clamp it. The top should be flush with the top of the sides. The bottom should extend about 5/8" lower than the back piece.

Step 7: Glue the other 1 1/2" strips to the bottom of the middle back and to the two sides and clamp it. Again, be sure not to clamp too much. Make sure it is square.

Step 8: Glue the middle front piece (11 1/2" x 5 3/16") to the strip, the sides, and the bottom. This piece will go all the way to the bottom. Glue the two middle dividers in place. I sectioned mine off in thirds, but you could divide this up into sections to fit your devices. The dividers will also help keep it square when you clamp it.

Step 9: Glue the front piece the sides and the bottom and clamp it. The front will sit on top of the side edges and bottom edge, not between them. Glue the front divider in place. I put mine in the middle, but you could divide this up into sections to fit your devices.

Step 10: Fill any holes with putty and sand, as necessary.

Step 11: Paint or stain to your liking.

I used some Antique White paint that I had leftover from another project. You could stencil or decorate it to match your decor.

Step 11: Decide where you want to place your electronics and put the cords through the holes. Plug the USBs into your multi-port USB charger or power strip. This will fit a small power strip or multi-port USB charger. Check the dimensions of your power strip/charger prior to making yours and make any necessary adjustments. I used this 6 port charger due to the ability to plug any device into any port, but there are many options available that would fit. 

Step 12: Tuck the cords and charger inside and plug it in.

Step 13: Enjoy your new charging station and all the extra outlet space that has been freed up!

These charging stations also make great gifts. I made three of them for Christmas presents this year!

How to Remove Chap Stick Grease Stains from Clothing

Last week, I managed to wash TWO tubes of Chap Stick with my laundry.The worst part is that I did not notice it until after the clothes had gone through the dryer and the grease stain was set it. All my clothes in that load looked like this.

I gathered up a bunch of supplies and experimented to see what would get the grease stains out of the clothes. There were 2 pairs of jeans and 4 t-shirts that had the most grease stains, so I used them for my tests.

I tried baking soda and Oxi Clean, Borax, Dawn, Tide Oxi, Goop, Oxi Clean, Kids 'N Pets, chalk, Dawn Platinum, clarifying shampoo, and Shout Advanced Grease Busting Foam. After each treatment, I washed the clothes in the warm water with Tide Simply Clean. I let each item air dry until I knew if the stain came out. If the stain was still there, I did not put it in the dryer.

Here is what worked and what failed!

Knit Z-Man Sweater

Happy New Year's Eve! Here is another project that I made for Christmas. I made this sweater for my nephew.

I found the pattern in Zoe Mellor's book Adorable Knits for Tots. A couple years ago, I made this sweater for his older sister from this same book.

I found this cute Ships Ahoy! sweater pattern and I knew I wanted to make one for Zach. I had intended to make it with the boat and fish. I ordered the yarn online. The yarn looked more blue on my computer screen. When I received the yarn in the mail, it was more green than I wanted. I decided to alter the pattern to have a Z on it, but I really like how it turned out.

If you want to see more details about this pattern, please see my Z-Man Sweater project page on Ravelry. Be sure to take a look at some more of my knitting and crocheting projects on my Ravelry project page.

Free Kid's Mohawk Ear Flap Hat Pattern

My eight year old niece is fun-loving and loves to be the center of attention. I wanted to make her a new hat for Christmas this year, so I decided to knit her a mohawk hat.

I made a basic ear flap hat and then added a felted mohawk.


I used Red Heart's With Love yarn in Jadeite held double for the main part of the hat and Lion Brand's Vanna's Choice in White for the hat trim. I found a skein of Joann Sensations Marvel in my stash. I have no idea why or when I bought it, but I wanted something that was brightly colored and was feltable for the mohawk and this yarn was perfect.

Notes:

This hat is knit in the round starting at the top. I used wool yarn for the mohawk so I could felt it. If you do not want to felt the mohawk, you can use a synthetic fiber yarn. You can use either worsted or bulky weight yarn to make the hat. If you use worsted weight yarn hold the yarn doubled. There is a front and back to this hat. The front is the side with the 20 cast off stitches.

Materials:

Set of 4 dpn – Size 10 ½

Size J Crochet Hook

75g Worsted or Bulky Weight Acrylic Yarn - Hat (A) 

15g Worsted or Bulky Weight Acrylic Yarn - Hat Edging (B)

45g Worsted or Bulky Weight Wool Yarn - Mohawk 

Size:

This will fit a large child or a small adult head

Hat:

Using color A, Cast on 4 sts.

1^st rnd: (Inc 1 st in next st) 4 times. 8 sts. Divide sts evenly onto 3 needles (3, 3, 2) sts. Join in rnd. Place a marker on first st.

2^nd and alternate rnds to 14^th rnd: Knit around.

3^rd rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. Rep from * around. 16 sts.

5^th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K1. Rep from * around. 24 sts.

7^th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Rep from * around. 32 sts.

9^th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K3. Rep from * around. 40 sts.

11^th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K4. Rep from * around. 48 sts.

13^th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K3. Rep from * around. 56 sts.

15^th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K3. Rep from * around. 64 sts.

16^th rnd – 31^st rnd: Knit around.

32^nd rnd: Divide for the ear flaps. Cast off 6 sts. 16 sts. Cast off 20 sts. K16. Cast off remaining 6 sts.

First Ear flap: With RS facing rejoin to the 16 sts. Working back and forth across 2 needles in rows, work 4 rows in stockinette st.

Next row: (RS) K1. K2tog. Knit to last 3 sts. SSK. K1.

Next row: Purl

Repeat last 2 rows 5 times more. 4 sts remain.

Next row: K1. K2tog. K1.

Next row: P3.

Next row: K3tog. Fasten off.

Second Ear flap: Work the same way as for first ear flap.

Mohawk:

Fold the hat in half so the ear flaps line up on top of each other. Run a strand of contrasting yarn through the middle to mark the center line. This is not necessary, but will help you keep the Mohawk straight.

Cut about 120 strands of the mohawk yarn. If you are planning on felting the Mohawk, cut the strands at about 8”. If you are not planning on felting it, then cut the strands at 4”.

Starting in the front about 1 ½” up and using the contrasting yarn as a guide, put a crochet hook under the knit st. Take 4 strands of the Mohawk yarn and fold the strands in half. Grab the middle of the strands with the crochet hook and pull up a loop. Put the ends of the strands through the loop. This will give you eight 4” strands in this place. Do this about every other stitch to the back of the hat. If you want a thicker or thinner, adjust the number of strands that you use. 

You can then felt the mohawk if you choose. Once your mohawk has been felted to your liking, trim it to your desired length. I trimmed mine to about 2 1/2 inches.

Crochet Edging: 

With RS facing and the crochet hook, join B with sl st at the center of the back. Ch 1. Work 1 rnd of sc evenly around the edge of the hat and the ear flaps. Work 3 sc in each point of the ear flaps. Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Ear Flap Ties (make 2): 

Cut 3 strands each of A and B 30” long. Using the crochet hook, pull 3 strands of A and 3 strands of B through a stitch near the point of the ear flap. Adjust the strands so they are exactly folded in half. There will now be 12 strands. Separate the strands by color. Take the 6 strands of A and twist it to the right. Place a small knot or a clip at the bottom. Take the 6 strands of B and twist it to the right. Place a small knot or a clip at the bottom. Twist the 2 colors together by putting the right over the left. Remove the clips or knots and make one knot at the bottom. Trim the ends, if necessary.

Here is the printable pdf of the patternprintable pdf of the pattern.

You can see more details for this and my other knitting and crocheting projects on my Ravelry project page.

Knit Cars-Themed Sundress Pattern

My 3 year old niece loves Lightning McQueen and the Cars movies. Unfortunately, most of the clothes that are sold with Lightning McQueen is geared toward boys. I decided to make her a Cars dress for Christmas.

I found Lion Brand's Knit Sundress Pattern. I used this as the starting point of the dress and then modified it to make it into a Cars dress. I made the dress using Lion Brand Cotton-Ease in Stone and I used Lion Brand Cotton-Ease in Cherry for the trim.

I found this Lightning McQueen Chart and this Tow Mater Chart. I duplicate stitched the chart onto the pockets. I did have to increase the width of the pockets to fit the charts on the pockets, but I think it turned out really cute. She also informed me that the pockets are the perfect size for holding her cars and even some room to carry treats!

You can check out more details for this pattern and see some of my other knitting and crocheting projects on my Ravelry project page.